An Enthralling Journey to Everest Base Camp

Two trekkers from Jhapa successfully completed the challenging hike over Chola Pass to Gokyo Ri and Everest Base Camp. Pasang Sherpa Lama, a hotel owner from Jongla, stated that after the COVID lockdown, equal facilities are now being provided to both Nepali and foreign tourists. In Gokyo, local entrepreneur Tenzing Sherpa has established a health center with his own investment, offering medical services to domestic and international visitors. My companion Jasu Limbu and I had dreamed of reaching Everest Base Camp for over a year. Our plans, tickets, and preparations had all been finalized before Dashain 2082 BS. However, the sudden JNIA movement halted our journey, making the dream seem incomplete for a time. Yet, the allure of the mountains remained undiminished, and after several months, our trek resumed. We traveled from Jhapa’s Kankadbhitta to Thamel, Kathmandu, a bustling hub filled with people buying trekking gear. After purchasing down jackets, trekking boots, gloves, sleeping bags, and other essentials, we headed toward Ramechhap.

Arriving at Ramechhap Airport in the chilly morning air marked the real beginning of our Himalayan adventure. Early the next day, we boarded a Summit Air flight to Lukla. The views of villages, rivers, and green hills from the plane window, flying between clouds and peaks, were breathtaking. Shortly, the aircraft landed at Tenzing-Hillary Airport. The cold mountain air and alpine surroundings invigorated our spirits. Our trek began on foot from Lukla. Crossing suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi River, we passed through Phakding en route to Monjo. After obtaining permits at the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park, we entered the Khumbu region. The journey was enriched by forests, rivers, birds, wildlife, rhododendron flowers, prayer flags (lungta), and scenic mountain trails. The steep climb to Namche Bazaar the following day was quite arduous. Despite growing fatigue, the view of the Hillary suspension bridge captivated us. When Namche Bazaar finally appeared, it felt like a welcoming Himalayan town awaiting our arrival. Surrounded by mountain ranges and nestled in a valley, the bustling market erased all our hardships.

We stayed two days at Namche’s Namaste Hotel to acclimatize. The warm hospitality and assistance from the hotel owner’s sister were remarkable. During this time, we visited Hotel Everest View, Khumjung village, the century-old Samten Choling Monastery, and Sagarmatha Next. Experiencing the Everest ascent through virtual reality (VR) technology and observing materials made from mountain-collected waste were unforgettable highlights. Additionally, Sherpa Barista Cafe in Namche Bazaar offered a 50% discount on coffee and snacks to Nepali tourists, which delighted us. The snowfall encountered on the return from Khumjung tested our health while adding excitement to the journey. Subsequently, our trek advanced toward Gokyo Lake passing through Dole and Machermo. Two French nationals and guide Pasang Chhiring Sherpa accompanied us for several days. Though these approximately 60-year-old tourists spoke only French, their kind and friendly demeanor enriched our camaraderie despite the language barrier. As altitude increased, breathing became difficult and nights brought freezing temperatures. Yet, the deep blue waters of Gokyo Lake, tranquil surroundings, and towering peaks helped us forget the hardships. Upon reaching Gokyo, my brother and I underwent medical checkups at the internationally recognized health center there. Oxygen levels were assessed, and necessary medications administered. Established by Tenzing Sherpa with his own investment, the center serves both local and foreign tourists. His heartfelt welcome and support for Nepali visitors deeply touched us.

The next morning, we climbed Gokyo Ri summit. The panoramic views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu were truly indescribable. Sunlight shining on the snow-capped mountains revealed nature’s unparalleled beauty, momentarily dispelling all fatigue and difficulty. Afterwards, we proceeded through Thangnak toward the most challenging segment — crossing Chola Pass. Battling snow, slippery trails, and icy winds, we progressed by grasping iron ropes at certain spots. Despite the hardships, we bravely conquered the pass, experiencing what felt like a major lifetime achievement. In Jongla, we stayed at Mountain Home. Pasang Sherpa Lama, the owner, mentioned, “Before COVID lockdown, many hotels rarely prioritized Nepali tourists for food and lodging, but now equal facilities are provided to both Nepali and foreign visitors.” His words reflected the positive changes in Himalayan tourism. From Jongla, we journeyed through Lobuche to Gorak Shep. The golden glow of sunset on Everest as we climbed Kala Patthar mesmerized everyone. On the descent, we spotted the Tibetan Snowcock and on our return had the opportunity to visit the large and stunning Pangboche Monastery. On the way back toward Namche, we also observed the national bird, the Danphe, up close. After spending the night at Snowland Inn in Gorak Shep, we set out early the next day toward our final destination — Everest Base Camp. The Khumbu region proved more expensive than anticipated, with essential food and supplies costing quite a bit. After traversing such difficult trails, reaching Base Camp was an indescribable moment. Standing amidst the Khumbu Glacier, climbers’ tents, and towering peaks, it felt like a dream fulfilled at last. The days spent in the lap of Everest taught us not only how to reach Base Camp but also how to face hardships, strengthen friendships, and maintain faith in our dreams. This Himalayan journey became a precious chapter of our lives that will forever remain alive in our memories.