Who Are the Six Nepali Climbers Lost on Broad Peak and How to Recognize Them?

19th Saun, Kathmandu – Nepal mourns the loss of its legendary climbers during an expedition on Broad Peak, which towers 8,047 meters high in Pakistan.

Among those who perished in the accident were Nirmal Purja (Nims Dai), Purbahadur Gurung (Yukta), Kilipemba Sherpa (Kilu), Nima Sherpa, Nawangthendu Sherpa, and Gyalu Sherpa—all of whom had made profound contributions to Nepali mountaineering.

Purbahadur Gurung (Yukta) – Ten-time Everest Summiteer

Born in Laprak of Dharche Rural Municipality-4, Northern Gorkha, Yukta’s childhood was surrounded by mountains. Born in 1989, he dreamed of joining the British Army but abandoned the dream due to the armed conflict, starting work in a hotel in Manang in his early years. His interactions with trekking guides increased thereafter, and he eventually moved to Kathmandu intending to become a guide.

His colleague Tulsing Gurung said, ‘He started as a porter in 2009 and gradually worked in camping groups as a kitchen helper.’

Yukta advanced from assistant guide to trekking guide, and then planning guide. He earned an International Mountain Guide certification just last December, Tulsing added.

Born in Laprak, Tulsing is also the president of their association. Yukta holds the record for the most Everest ascents within the Gurung community, having summited ten times.

His first Everest climb was in 2011. He had successfully summited 12 peaks over 8,000 meters. Tulsing noted, ‘There are 14 peaks in the world above 8,000 meters, of which eight are in Nepal. Yukta had climbed all except two.’

He set a new record by ascending Pakistan’s Mount Ketu within 24 hours and was active in rescuing stranded tourists. He lost his life in the mountains that nurtured him at age 37.

Yukta had traveled from Nepal to Pakistan three weeks before the Broad Peak expedition and, sadly, never returned.

Kilipemba Sherpa (Kilu) – Climber of All 14 Peaks Over 8,000 Meters

A native of Beding, Dolakha Gaurishankar Rural Municipality-9, Kilipemba had been familiar with the mountains since his youth. He participated in numerous expeditions alongside Nims Dai.

He was part of a successful 10-member winter expedition in 2021. Kilipemba set a record by placing his footsteps on Everest’s summit 15 times. Born in 1981 (2038 BS), he began his climbing career in 1996 on Manaslu and first summited Everest in 2003.

Kilipemba was a daring and resilient climber whose support enabled climbers to achieve seemingly impossible ascents. Notably, in 2018, he played an inspirational role in assisting a double-leg amputee Shia boy to summit Everest successfully.

Diligent Mountaineer Nima Sherpa

Recognized as a hardworking climber in the mountaineering community, 36-year-old Nima from Sankhuwasabha Makalu Rural Municipality successfully summited four peaks over 8,000 meters just this year. Though primarily a hiking assistant, his focus remained firmly on mountaineering.

Continuing Family Legacy: Nawangthendu Sherpa

Broad Peak also claimed the promising journey of young climber Nawangthendu, whose family is deeply connected to mountaineering. His father and elder brother were also engaged in the field, providing him a supportive environment.

Born in 1997 in Sankhuwasabha Makalu, his father Pasangyalje Sherpa was also a mountaineer. During this time, Nawangthendu worked with the Seven Summit climbing team and began his climbing career in 2019 with an ascent of Iceland Peak as part of an international climbing team.

He had successfully completed 15 ascents, first summiting Everest in 2022 and reaching the fourth camp in both 2021 and 2023. Additionally, he successfully climbed Ama Dablam twice in 2023.

Supportive Climber Gyalu Sherpa

Born in 1978 (2035 BS) in Okhaldhunga Patne, Gyalu Sherpa had been working in the Seven Summit Trek. He had prior experience summiting Everest and had climbed over 19 peaks. Dedicated to ensuring climbers reached summits safely and comfortably, Gyalu was an invaluable team member.

According to the Nepal Mountaineering Association records, his first climb was Lenin Peak in 2015. In the same year, he also summited Mera Peak and Lobuche. After climbing Kanchenjunga in 2019, he reached Everest’s summit last season.

In 2025, he joined the rope-fixing team for Kanchenjunga, summiting the peak three times that year.

Nims Dai (Nirmal Purja) – Redefining Mountaineering

Born in Myagdi, Nirmal Purja (Nims Dai) was a British Army soldier. While he was active as a Gurkha soldier, he wasn’t internationally renowned as a climber at that time.

Nims Dai served 16 years in the military — six years as a Gurkha and ten years in the UK Special Forces (SBS). He joined as a Gurkha soldier in 2003 at age 18. Although raised in Chitwan, he initially had limited connection to mountains.

In 2009, he became the first Gurkha soldier to join the Special Boat Service. He began mountaineering in 2012.

His mountaineering journey began after trekking to Everest Base Camp. His first climb was Lobuche East, a peak at 6,119 meters, before returning to military service.

According to nimsdai.com, he developed skills to rapidly assess difficult situations and ensure others’ safety—qualities that aided his climbing career.

He emphasized rescue and support during climbs, setting a record in 2019 by summiting all 14 world peaks above 8,000 meters in six months.

Nims Dai set a record for climbing Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu within just five days. He was awarded the MBE by Queen Elizabeth II and promoted adventure tourism by skydiving on Everest.

He achieved a record 57 ascents of peaks above 8,000 meters, including 29 without supplemental oxygen. Just last week, he completed his 57th ascent by climbing Gasherbrum II in Pakistan.